As tourist in Tripoli one must not miss visiting the Roman City of Tripolitania - the 130 kms away Libdah Leptis Magna. You would not regret going back to some 2600 years behind in time!

We drove out of the city heading eastward, with the costal Mediterranean stretch to our left. Clean road, devastated fort-walls along the sea, caravans of camels were the typical sights all along. In less than two hours, soon after we crossed the modern city Al-Khoumes, we were encased deep in history - back to the 6^th Century BC.

Deriving its name from the Greek word Lepcis Megali, meaning the great, the Phoenicians have found the name on old coins dating to 1^st century BC. Leptis Magna used to be a small maritime harbour and part of the tri city of Trepolis the Oea, Sabratah and Leptis Magna. Early history accounts that along the Leptis valley, the Libyan Macae tribes fought and pushed the Greek colonists into the sea. And then warred with the Spartans. Under the Roman Empire this large stretch was known as Tripolitania Regio. Leptis became an important administrative centre and had its own laws, governors, and chief magistrates. Across vast stretch, Leptis was considered one of the most important ports. It got known as Romes Barn.

Leptis was taken for urban development by Romans, with marble coming in from Italy, Greece and Asia Minor, huge granite single-piece granites from Egypt. Romans excelled in construction. As a tourist, even now there is a lot to be seen and admired vastly spread out ruined Leptis.

The Harbour:

It is of two levels above the sea - one for the quay and the higher one for the custom officials and the stores. A lighthouse with mirrors reflecting light from the firewood flames used to guide and navigate vessels, some 30 miles away. Leptis exported ivory, gems and precious stones apart from leather and in turn, imported glass, textiles, ceramics and weapons.

The Temples:

Worship of the Gods of Mount Olympus began in word and spirit during this time. The deities resembled a class of rulers, humans and not super naturals. The temples of Leptis bore Roman religious philosophy with witchcraft, oracles and fortune-tellers.

Serapaeum is the temple of Leptis. The sacred place, cella is on high platform, ornamental with white marble and an altar in the front, still in its original place till this date. The statue of God Serapis, of black marble, stands with Cerberus and Hades, the three-headed dog. These temples were built typical to Roman style.

The vast old city also housed a Church, an Old Forum Church, an Old Basilica, Severan Basilica, a Temple of Jupiter, a temple of Liber Pater, Temple of Roma and Augustus. All these render to record the religious diversity and the varied time zones when the state was unable to cope with religious overtones. It is said that magistrates then often sought the help of witches, sorcerers and mediums.

The Theatre

The theatre of Leptis was built and financed by the wealthy residents of that city and presented to the Emperor Augustus in the 2^nd century A.D. Being able to accommodate nearly 5000 people in the semi-circular range of multiple tiers of seats in the open auditorium (cavea) this theatre was used for performing arts, music, ballet and pantomimes. The climb up to the top-most tiers threw up magnificent view of the external city, and inside, the large stage in the front (pulpitum). Short of the stage-platform, a D shaped provision housed a large live orchestra. At the two ends of the stage, stood once, statues of the gods Dionysus and Hercules.

Behind the theatre-stage, stand the majestic Corinthian columns, of grey stone and walls panelled with marble. Visitors were all over the place, making majestic moves, dramatising the royal emperors of the past or checking out on the acoustic values of the ancient theatre. Further away the column stood a portico that served to be the entry and the exit to this enclosure.

And the grand amphitheatre and circus

Faraway from the main site is this location, closer to the prison on one side and the sea on the other; this huge, circular amphitheatre is beyond anyones mighty imagination. Reminding us of the current-day 40000-seating sports stadium, although planned and constructed to a Greek design, this place served to hold races, fights of the dwarfs and criminals in bloodbath. Combating with themselves or with deadly beasts, death alone was often their final victory. There were separate underground enclosures for the prisoners to be brought from their cell as well as designated visitor entries and exits to all the galleries along the four wings of the amphitheatre. It is as typical and modern as the current sports arena.

The Baths

Under the rule of Hadrian, Roman baths is said to have reached its sophisticated peak. These were decorated once with marble statues of personalities, beautiful men, women and favourite slaves. Also known as the Hunting Bath, the Baths of Hadrian in Leptis Magna is built halfway through the city-wall and the emerald blue seashore. Walls bear mosaic of hunting lions and leopards as well as frescoes of animal skins and hunters. One would notice building blocks for furnaces and boilers. An inscription there state: I found water, raised it and brought it into colony of Leptis. It showed evidence of a well-designed ancient city.

The Arches

Leptis Magna has five limestone-built arches, each marking a milestone moment in its history - to record victory in a war, or the arrival of its leaders. The Arch of Tiberius is the oldest dating back to 14 37 A.D. However, Arch of Trajan looked to be the best preserved, to mark the Emperor Trajan granting colonial status to Leptis.

Another Arch exists for the Emperor Septimius Severus, known as the founder of a Libyan dynasty in Rome. He is said to have brought major reform in imperial guard, including Libyans to serve as soldiers.

The Market

One look, unmistakably the market is impressive for more than one reason. The large organized area, dedicated to the storage and sale of merchandize of varied kinds grains and pulses, green vegetables, meat products. Colonnades surround this rectangular open space. The central market comprise of two pavilions, ionic columns, disposed in circle-shape over an octagonal form. Mercury, said to be the god of commerce, his symbol adorned one of the two gates to this market. It was indeed surprising to observe a stone tableau and cavities which had signs and indications inscribed to record volumes and measures for grains, with balances and weights followed in their era. This was akin to our scales to measure in our current metric system!

The Severan Forum

What impressed us the most were the Severan Forum as well as the Severan Basilica. One will wonder on the architectural and engineering capabilities of the men of that era and the techniques that they practiced to build majestic monuments. Here, lofty Corinthian columns stood between the walls and overhead, the stone arches held it all tight and firmly locked. Atop the column and arches on either side, the marble stones bear images of carved-faced, circular and curly-haired Gorgon. While most of these have been brought to the ground, about 70 of these sharp-eyed marvel is strewn across the once imposing forum-hall. These Gorgon images, most of them defaced but with fine life-like details, give us a cold feeling down the spine, as if the Gods and spirits of Leptis were casting a spell over the visitors to this Libdah.

The eerie silence of the witnessed Gorgons does seem to communicate some thing. But, with the day coming to a close, as tourists, we neither had the time nor the courage to stay and hear these beheaded Gorgons! When leaving the place, one would wonder what brought this city to such prominence and later to be buried for nearly fourteen centuries under the fine desert-sands.

Interesting site to explore with map - http://www.alnpete.co.uk/lepcis/windows.html

Visitors must carry light, cool clothes, a heavily loaded camera, spare film rolls (digital cameras would be better), sun hat, sun lotion/creame and plenty of liquids to consume. Fully loaded Medical kit and Dollars (no Travellers Cheques in Libya)